Cashmere is a natural fibre combed from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. It is finer, lighter and warmer than standard wool, and when it is made properly, it lasts for decades.
This guide covers what cashmere is, where it comes from, what it is made of, and how to tell the difference between cashmere worth buying and cashmere that is not.
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What Is Cashmere?
Cashmere is fibre, like wool, but considerably finer. It comes from the soft undercoat that cashmere goats grow to survive cold winters in high-altitude regions. That undercoat measures between 14 and 16 microns in diameter. Standard wool runs at 20 microns or more.
That difference in fineness is why cashmere feels different from wool against the skin. The fibres are smooth enough that they do not register as itchy, even worn directly against the face or neck.
What cashmere is made of, at its most basic, is keratin, the same protein found in human hair. What makes it rare is not the material itself but the animal, the climate and the process required to produce it in usable quantities.
Where Does Cashmere Come From?
Cashmere comes primarily from Inner Mongolia, which produces the finest fibre in the world. The extreme climate: cold winters, hot summers, high altitude, causes the goats to grow a particularly dense, soft undercoat. That environmental stress is what produces the quality.
Smaller quantities come from other regions: Nepal, Afghanistan, Iran and parts of China outside Inner Mongolia. The quality varies significantly by region. Mongolian cashmere is consistently regarded as the finest available because of the specific conditions in which the goats are raised.
The fibre is collected once a year in spring, during the natural shedding season. Each goat produces between 150 and 200 grams of usable fibre annually, enough for roughly one sweater. That scarcity is one reason why genuine cashmere costs what it does.
What Is Cashmere Made Of — From Fibre to Finished Knit
Understanding what cashmere is made of means following the fibre from the goat to the finished garment.
The process starts with combing. During spring moulting, the soft undercoat is hand-combed from the goat, gently, without shearing. The coarser outer hairs are separated from the fine undercoat. Only the fine fibre is used.
The raw fibre is then cleaned, sorted by grade and spun into yarn. Grade A cashmere - the finest and longest fibres -, produces the softest, most durable yarn. Grade B and C fibres are shorter and thicker, used in lower-cost products.
The yarn is then knitted into fabric. The gauge of the knit — how many stitches per inch — determines the weight and texture of the finished piece. A 12-gauge knit produces a fine, close fabric. The ply — how many strands are twisted together — determines durability. 2-ply construction is standard for quality knitwear.
At Fiora Muse, we work exclusively with Grade-A Inner Mongolian cashmere at 12-gauge, 2-ply. Every piece is SFA certified and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 approved.
How to Identify High-Quality Cashmere
Not all cashmere is the same. These are the factors that determine quality.
Fibre grade. Grade A cashmere — fibres measuring 14-16 microns — is the finest available. It pills less, lasts longer and feels softer than lower grades. Look for brands that specify Grade A and can verify it through certification.
Ply. Single-ply cashmere pills faster and loses its shape more quickly than 2-ply. The extra strand adds strength without adding bulk.
Certifications. Three certifications matter: SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) confirms ethical sourcing and animal welfare at the farm level. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 confirms the finished fabric is free from harmful substances. OCS and GRS verify responsible use of organic and recycled fibres.
Feel. High-quality cashmere feels soft immediately, not after washing. If a piece feels slightly rough in a shop, it will not soften significantly with wear.
Price. Genuine Grade-A cashmere cannot be produced cheaply. A cashmere sweater priced under €200 is almost certainly a low-grade blend. The fibre cost alone makes that price impossible for a genuine product.
Why Cashmere Is Worth the Price
A well-made cashmere piece costs more upfront than most knitwear. Over time, it costs less.
A cheap knit worn for one season and replaced costs more over ten years than one well-made cashmere sweater maintained properly. The maths only work against cashmere if the piece pills, loses its shape or shrinks after a few washes, which is what happens with low-grade fibre or single-ply construction.
High-grade cashmere — Grade A, 2-ply, properly cared for — does not do those things. It softens with wear. It holds its shape. It remains wearable a decade after purchase.
That is what makes a cashmere cardigan or cashmere sweater from a brand that sources responsibly a different kind of purchase from fast fashion knitwear.
Sustainable and Ethical Cashmere
Cashmere production has environmental challenges. Overgrazing from expanding goat herds has degraded, Irresponsible production prioritises volume over animal welfare and land management.
Responsible cashmere production addresses this directly. The SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) sets standards for animal welfare, responsible land management and full supply chain traceability — from herder to finished yarn. Brands certified by the SFA can verify where their fibre comes from and how the animals were treated.
At Fiora Muse, we work exclusively with SFA-certified manufacturers. Our cashmere is hand-combed during the natural shedding season, never from intensive or industrial farming. OCS and GRS certifications further verify responsible fibre sourcing throughout our supply chain.
How to Care for Cashmere
Cashmere lasts decades with the right care. The basics are straightforward.
Hand wash in cold water with a gentle detergent. Never use hot water — it causes the fibres to felt irreversibly. Do not wring. Press gently between two clean towels and reshape while damp. Dry flat, never hang a wet cashmere piece.
Store folded, not hanging. Cedar blocks deter moths. Wash before storing for the season.
For a complete step-by-step guide, read our how to wash cashmere guide.
Three Common Questions About Cashmere
People often ask what cashmere is made of versus wool. Both are protein fibres from animals, but cashmere fibres are significantly finer — 14-16 microns versus 20+ for standard wool. That fineness is why cashmere feels soft against skin that finds wool scratchy. The warmth-to-weight ratio is also higher in cashmere, meaning a lighter fabric provides more insulation.
A second common question is where the best cashmere comes from. Inner Mongolia produces the finest cashmere consistently, because the climate causes the goats to grow the densest, softest undercoat. Cashmere from other regions varies considerably in quality.
Finally, whether cashmere is worth buying at all. For anyone who wears knitwear regularly and values what they wear against their skin, the answer is yes — provided the piece is genuine Grade A cashmere from a brand that can verify its sourcing. The difference between that and a low-grade alternative is not marginal. It is significant.
The Cashmere from Fiora Muse
Fiora Muse cashmere is designed in Helsinki and knitted from 100% Grade-A Mongolian cashmere — 12-gauge, 2-ply construction, hand-combed during the natural shedding season.
SFA certified. OEKO-TEX Standard 100. OCS and GRS verified.